Costing tips for garment merchandiser
In this article, garment merchandising will discus some important costing tips for garment merchandiser.Costing is fundamentally the ascertainment of cost whether for a specified thing or activity.To determine cost, we want to apply accounting and costing principles, methods and techniques.Costs may be historical/being incurred or estimates. Cost normally can be defined as’ the economic value placed upon the resources consumed to make a product.’ Costing is the process of approximating and then defining the total cost of producing a garment, together with the cost of materials, labor and transportation as well as the general expenditures of the functioning the industry. Merchandiser has to have thorough concerned of costing. There are numerous reasons where cost plays the vital role. Merchandiser does the costing mainly for two purposes.
1) Fabrication: You must take clear idea regarding the fabrication before taking the order from the Buyer / buying house. You must ensure strong source of required fabric.
2) Size spec: Make sure that, you have got the correct/latest size spec with the measurement of all the sizes, which will be ordered. Many times we see that, PO sheet has come with new bigger size which was not during the costing.
3) Fabric color: Try to know that, how many colors the style has & also try to know that, color wise
order qty ratio.
4) Qty: Take information regarding approximate order qty.
5) Shipment date: Asked buyer for the shipment date & check with your production department
that, they have enough space for shipped out the followings qty within the require ship date Or tell
your possible date.
Test requirement: Let you know that, the order has any test or not.
8) Inspection: Please get a confirmation from the buyer that, who will inspected the goods. If third
party then who will pay their charges.
Calculating Fabric Consumption
1) Body Consumption:
Calculate the body fabric consumption at first. If possible calculate it after make the pattern.
Be confirmed regarding the dia. Moreover, if the garments are wash garments then make
sure that, the pattern has the wash allowance.
2) Rib: Calculate the rib consumption carefully because sometimes the garments have rib at cuff
opening & bottom hem.
3) Neck tape: Calculate the consumption of neck tape.
4) Appliqué & others fabric: Make sure that, you are not missing any appliqué & any other fabric.
5) Estimate the wastage:
Normally we add 9% wastage for the knit items. However, it’s may vary depends on how many
Process the garments have. If it is with only front chest print then 9% is ok but if with allover/rotary print, with heavy wash etc. then you must increase the wastage .Moreover, if the garments with pigments dye then add minimum 25 to 30% wastage because in this pigment dye garments reject percentage is very high.
1) Print: If the garments have print then make sure, you have a clear art work of it with clearly
Mentioning the print quality, dimension & placement. Get the idea of printing price and possible
Difficulties of the print. Sometimes buyer ask for different prints in same body which is so difficult
2) Embroidery: Discuss with your embroidery supplier regarding the embroidery & take price
3)Wash: Take the wash price quotation from washing factory.
4) Test: Confirm the charges of test from the testing company.
Accessories & trims
1) Sewing thread: Confirm that, which thread you need 100% cotton, spun polyester or filaments.
Then ensure the count 50/2 or 40/2 or any other denier. Its may vary on fabrications. Regarding
the pigment dye garments we normally used cotton grey color cotton thread. Calculate the sewing thread consumption part by part & add require wastage percentage.
Other accessories includes labels, tape, elastic, zipper, button, interlining, patch or badge, finishing item, hanger, carton, gum tape and carton stickers.
CM (Cost of making)
Calculate the CM after discussion with production department. It’s depends on require machine qty & output qty.
Woven fabric consumption formula
- Before calculate the woven fabric consumption, you must need the followings information as mentioned below:
1) Measurement chart with technical spec.
2) Style Description.
3) Fabric Description.
4) Fabrics width/weight.
5) Washing shrinkage if any. This formula is as under :
Formula = Length X Width / Fab width
- Length = length of the specific parts + allowance
- Width = width of the specific parts + allowance
- Fab width = Fabric width ( after considering the shrinkage allowance). Say, fabric width is 45″ & the
shrinkage allowance is 1″, Then the Fabric width will be (45″-1″) = 44″ in the formula.
Now consumption of a Shirt (front part)
- Center front length = 32″+1″ (Sewing allowance) = 33″
- Width (Chest) = 24″ + 1″ (Sewing allowance) +3“Pleat (1.5X2) = 28“
= Length X Width / Fab width
= 33″ X 28″ / 44″ X 36″
= 924″ / 1584″
= 0.59 Yards. (for front part)
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