Elements of pressing in apparel | Pressing Equipment in apparel
Elements of pressing in apparel | Pressing Equipment in apparel: The application of heat, moisture, and pressure to shape, mold or crease fabrics, garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms intended by their designers” May be done during assembly or as a final finishing process In-Process Pressing (under-pressing):
To shape, crease and/or smooth components for more accurate seaming Finish Pressing (off-pressing):
Adds the final shape to seams and garments Time, temperature, pressure and types of mechanical devices used for pressing depends on;
1- Types of material used
2- Desired shape or form
3- The degree of permanency needed
Elements of Pressing
To soften fibers, stabilize, and set the desired shape. Must be according to fibers, yarns and fabrics
The means of transferring heat into the fabric Created by heating water in a pressure/boiler. Higher the pressure, the hotter and drier the steam Different fabrics require different amounts of moisture and heat Excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and color bleeding.
To alter shape and increase permanency of the molding or creasing Too much pressure may distort fabric surfaces, flatten textures, and create permanent garment and/or fabric damage
The amount of pressure and time can be minimized by drying and rapid cooling the garment during the pressing process
Pressing Equipment & its Types
Used by manufacturers of slacks, skirts, and jackets and most of the dry cleaning plants A lower buck and a complementary moveable head with a linkage system, buck padding, steam and vacuum systems, frame and table, gauges and manual/automatic controls for steams, vacuum, heat and pressure May be used for in-process pressing and finish pressing.
Manual molding operation with pressure and heat application with a flat contact surface Consists of an iron, power line, bed buck, and an iron support system Irons vary in weight and plate dimensions and characteristics depending on the type of pressing operation, fabric, area to be pressed and quality specifications of the operation Mostly used for under-pressing and are more versatile and mobile and are most common in our daily life
Block or Die Pressing:
To establish a product’s conformance to a form May change the surface characteristics and dimensions of a product An operator positions the component over a die and engages the machine, and folding blades fold and hold the edges to the underside for creases to be set May also be used to mold collars, collar stands and cuffs.
Used for final pressing or for renovating garments in dry cleaning plants Formed in approximate shapes as the finished garment Designed to reduce the positioning and repositioning time Just smooth garment fabric but does not set creases
Uses only steam to mold & smooth the garment Major types include steam jets, steam guns, steam puffs, and steam tunnels or chambers (used to form and stabilize garment shape or smooth the surface of the fabric)
Used for finish pressing Garments are de-wrinkled within a chamber by the average pressure of the circulating steam May also use conveyors to carry garments from one place to other while steaming and pressing those garments Mainly used for pressing finished garments that do not need creasing or molding of any kind Boilers, Steam Generators and/or Vacuum Systems:
Generate required steam and air pressure Cost and time required for producing steam contribute directly to the cost of operating the pressing equipment and the rate of production
Technological Advancements in Pressing
Main focusing areas are:
- Greater versatility
- More precision in determining exact pressing requirements of fabrics and finishes
- Improved quality
- Energy savings
Microprocessors with a variety of settings can control factors such as conveyor speed, steam and air volume, and temperatures. Equal treatment to each and every garment according to computerizes settings and controls automated buck pressing and automated steam tunnels could be the examples.