Garment cutting department overview
In this article, garment merchandising will provide you Garment cutting department overview . This article is about Garment cutting department overview.Process of separating a ramification into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The Cutting department is that the back of industry. it’s an process and will be through with care.
Cutting contributes to the standard, efficiency, and value of subsequent operations including handling, fusing and sewing. Proper use of cutting equipment also effect quality of cut parts. Cutting quality is judged by
_ Accuracy of cut parts.
_ Condition of cut edges.
ACCURACY OF CUT PARTS
- Accurate cutting facilitates sewing and improves garment quality.
- Inaccurate cutting may cause sewing operators to compensate by stretching or easing to form adjoining parts the identical length.
- This type of problem increase sewing time and assembly cost also causes defects and poor fit.
- For automatic sewing cut parts should be free from inaccuracy as there’s no operator to form
Factors that cause cutting inaccuracy are
_ Wide or vague line on marker
_ Imprecise following of lines on the marker
_ Variation within the cutting pitch
_ Shifting of the spread or block
_ Allowing fabric to bunch up or push earlier than knife
_ Using improper equipment
_ Using improper cutting sequence.
Cutting pitch is that the angle at which the cutting device contacts the spread.
_ It determines size uniformity from top to bottom ply for single stack.
_ preventing the spread from moving during cutting also contributes to uniformity.
_ Above mentioned factors is reduced by new marker making and cutting technology.
CONDITION OF CUT EDGES
_ Smooth edges and corners are easier to align and position during sewing operators. While
Frayed or fused edges are difficult to work.
_ Condition of cut edges is suffering from improper cutting equipment for the material.
_ Cutting equipment must be suited to the depth of spread and density of piece good. The thickness of every ply and therefore the number of plies within the spread determine the depth of the spread.
_ Density of fabric relates to fabric weight and is set by fiber content, yarn size and
_ Condition of cut edges depends on sharpness of knife, heat buildup and height of spread.
TYPE OF CUTTING
_ MANUAL CUTTING
_ COMPUTER CONTROL CUTTING
Most commonly used method of cutting both in small and huge manufacturing units.
1. Less productive
2. Time consuming
3. More labor is involve.
COMPUTER CONTROL CUTTING
Computer-generated markers are stored and accustomed guide the operation of the cutting head.
Printed markers aren’t required for cutting but could also be accustomed assist with bundling. the first advantage of computerized cutting systems is that the accuracy of the method.
The three forms of automated cutting systems are:
(I) Blade cutting,
(ii) laser cutting,
(iii) water jet cutting,
Automatic Blade Cutting is that the most highly developed and widely used computerized cutting system.
1) Numerically controlled knives cut multiple plies with great accuracy and speed. Information is
downloaded on to the cutting system when needed.
2) The central control unit operates the components of the system like the
_ cutting head,
_ cutter carriage,
_ knife sharpening, and
_ cutting table with conveyor.
A cutting head may be a sophisticated mechanical component with the capacity to chop, mark, and drill
as dictated by the pc.
3) Automatic knife sharpening is completed at intervals during the cutting operation.
4) The cutter carriage moves the cutting head and provides lengthwise and crosswise motion during the
5) The reciprocating blade is adjusted to the peak of the spread and density of the material.
6) Knife speed automatically adjusts to the forward speed of the cutting head. because the cutting head slows
for corners, curves, or notches, the reciprocating blade also slows to cut back heat and possible fusing.
Most reciprocating knife systems use a vacuum to carry down the material.
7) Placement of film over a ramification helps compress the material into a firm stationary lay-up
when the vacuum is applies.
8) The effect of the vacuum is to cut back the peak of the spread and eliminate fabric movement during
9) An intensified vacuum force is automatically applied to the world directly under the knife to further restrict material shifting. Laser Cutting focuses a strong beam of sunshine projected onto
a minute area to chop fabric . The fine, V-shaped beam is merely 0.004 of an in..
10) The beam cuts without pressure on the material, which may be a major advantage for a few forms of fabric. the material remains immobile during the cutting operation.
11) Lasers cut with incredible speed (twice that of automatic knife cutting), accuracy, but with some heat emission. Laser-cut edges are sharp and clean.
12) The warmth produced tends to seal fabric edges, which may be a plus for cloth that ravels and disadvantage for cutting multiple plies as edges may fuse together.
13) Laser-cut garment parts are easier to assemble, as they’re consistent in size with smooth sharp edges to align.
Water Jet Cutting is another computer-
14) Water jet cutting is performed by propelling a little jet of water (0.0010-0.0015 inch) through fabric at very air mass (70,000 pounds per square inch).
15) The forward fringe of the air stream shears the material because it moves along the cutting line but doesn’t wet the material.
16) The water jet will cut multiple plies without fusing, but it should fray and tangle the yarns of some fabrics, which make it difficult to separate the plies.
17) it’s used when heat buildup must be avoided and water absorption isn’t important. At this time its use is proscribed e.g. cutting of leather.
INVESTMENT IN CUTTING
- New cutting equipment could also repurchased to extend productivity and improve quality while
reducing direct labor.
- Firms goal, product lines and commitment to quality could also be basis of deciding.
- Comparison of apparatus is made on the basis of
_ Employees required,
_ Product quality,
_ Efficiency ,
_ Required floor space,
_ Material utilization,
_ Rate of return on investment.
Off loading is that the process of removing cut parts from cutting table, counting, ticketing,
and grouping them
1. Cut parts are considered work-in-process inventory and are counted and tracked throughout the remainder of the assembly processes.
2. This is sometimes done through bundle tickets that originate with cutting orders.
3. The method and sequence that follows rely on
_ the assembly system
_How materials are to be transported to sewing
_ Any additional operations which will be completed within the room.
The purpose of bundle tickets is to:
(1) Monitor the progress of every specific garment,
(2) make sure that all the right parts are assembled together, and
(3) Compensate operators for his or her work on each garment
- Cut part identification involves identifying and marking parts for further operations.
- Throughout the stitching process it’s essential that every garment be assembled from parts that are cut from the identical ply of material, which is ensured by shade marking each bit within the lay.
- Each piece is ticketed with a method number, size, and ply number. each bit or garment part is ticketed, and also the plies are numbered sequentially
- Operators can check ply numbers as parts are assembled to make certain that the right parts are being employed in each garment. Shade marking is finished before bundling. Then parts are able to be moved to the stitching operation.