How to calculate thread Consumption in Apparel

How to calculate thread Consumption in Apparel

In this article we will discuss the methods about, how to calculate thread consumption in apparel . As you are not running a business alone in a market place but you have many competitors of yours. To attract your customer just quality assurance of the product is not sufficient, you must understand the buying power of the end user also. To make a quality product with minimum cost is a big challenge in existing marketplace. Thread consumption is also a factor in costing of apparel manufacturing production houses. A precise calculation of thread consumption for a specific garment will not just save your cost but also empowers you to use a good quality thread with the similar cost, without compromising the product quality. The factors influencing the thread usage in a garment producing units are such as, type of stitch, seam type, fabric thickness, how many layers, construction and stitches per inch (SPI).Lets us knoe that how to calculate thread consumption in apparel.

Sewing of each garment in apparel industry is different in style, that’s why there is no standard thread consumption in industry. The thread consumption varies with the stitching styling such as thread consumption in jacket, denim pants, shirts and footwear will be different.

Generally, there are two methods of estimating thread consumption in apparel industries.

  1. Thread consumption by ratio method
  2. Measuring actual amount of thread consumed.

Method 1: Consumption Ratio Method

The simplest and easiest way to calculate thread consumption is ration method. The ratio of thread usage in different type of stitches is different which is enlisted below. By multiplying this ration with the length of seam using all stitch types in any garment the total thread consumption can be estimated precisely.

 

Type of M/C  Stitch Classes Needle thread % Lower thread %(lopper/Bobbin) # of Needles Thread usage CM per CM of seam length / CM
4 thread cover stitch 602 20 80 2 18
2 thread chain stitch  

401

 

25 75 1 5.5
5 thread safety stitch 516 20 80 2 20
5 thread covering stitch 605 30 70 3 28
3 thread over edge 504 20 80 1 14
3 thread covering stitch 406 30 70 2 18
Lock stitch 301 50 50 1 2.5
Zigzag

Lock stitch

304 50 50 1 7
Chain stitch 101 100 0 1 4
4 thread Mock safety stitch 512 25 75 2 18
2 thread over edge stitch 503 55 45 1 12
           

 

 

Points to be noted:

  • The ratio table mentioned above will be valid if the stitch density is seven stitches per Cm or eighteen stitches per inch.
  • These ratios are recommended to minimum in normal condition and slightly differ with the factors influencing consumption of thread.
  • A specific percentage of the thread consumption is to be added for wastage factor in the above ratios as per factory flow conditions. It may differ from 10% to 20 %.

Theoretical example:

Suppose,

Length of the seam is = 150 cm

Stitch class is 503= 2 thread cover edge stitch

Total thread usage per centimeter in above table = 12

Then,

Total thread consumption = 150 * 12

= 1800 cm

Needle thread usage = 0.55*1800

= 990 cm

Lower thread Usage =   0.45*1800

= 810 cm

By applying the same method you can estimate over all thread consumption of your garment. Let us take an example of thread consumption estimation for the medium size Men’s T-shirt.

The Thread consumption ratio table for Men’s T-shirt is given in below.

 

 

Type of m/c

 

Stitch class

 

Thread ratio

 

Seam length (meter)

Thread consumption (meter)  

LT

 

NT

1 thread chain stitch 101 4 0.10 0.4 0.4 0
2 thread over edge stitch 503 12 0.95 11.4 6.3 5.1
Lock stitch 301 2.5 4 10 5 5
3 Thread Over edge stitch 504 14 3 42 8.5 33.6
2 thread chain stitch 401 5.5 0.75 4 1 3

   

Total Thread consumption = 0.4+11.4+10+42+4

= 67.80

Total Lower thread consumption = 46.7

Total needle thread consumption = 21.1

15 % wastage of total consumption = 67.80 *15/100

= 10.17

Total thread consumption for T-Shirt = 67.80 +10.17

= 77.97

 

Let us take another example of thread consumption calculation for basic five pocket denim jeans.

Machine Thread consumption per Inch
Five thread over lock machine

15

Four thread over lock machine

12

Three thread over lock machine

9

Five thread flat lock machine

30

Four thread flat lock machine

18

Two thread chain stitch machine

5

One needle plain machine

2.5

Button attach machine ( four eyes)

5

Button attach machine (two eyes)

2.5

Button hole machine

12

Bar tack machine

12

 

  • Outside length =36*2*2.5*1=180 inches

or

In case of lock stitch=36 *9*1*2= 648 inches

  • Inside length = 28.5 *1*2.5*2 = 5 inches

Or

In case of lock stitch =   28.5*9 *1*2 =513 Inches

 

  • Belt Length = 2.5*2 *2.5*5 = 62.5 inches
  • Waist = 34*6*2.5=510 inches
  • With of bartake =0.75*12*2*5=90 inches
  • Pocket Opening =7*2*2.5*2=70 inches
  • pocket length = 3*2*2.5*1=15 inches
  • pocket width = 3.2*2*2.5*1=16 inches
  • Back pocket =7*9*2*1= 126 inches
  • Length of back pocket =6*4*2.5*2=120 inches
  • Width of back pocket = 7.2*4*2.5*2=144 inches
  • Bartake pocket= 1*4*12= 48 inches
  • For yoke= 10*2*2.5*2*3=300 inches
  • Seam top=6.6*2.5*2*1= 33 inches
  • Bartake =0.5*2*12*1=12 inches
  • Upper Ply =7*2*2,5*1= 35 inches
  • Lower ply =6.2*1*2.5*1= 15.5 inches
  • Bartake=1.2*12*1=14.4 inches
  • Front bartack= 0.5*12*1=6 inches
  • Front riser=4*2*2.5*1=20 inches
  • Back riser =12*2*2.5*3= 180 inches
  • Mouth stitch =3*1*2.5*1= 7.5 inches
  • Ply=7*3*9*3= 567 inches
  • Thread for zipper=6*3*2.5*1=45 inches
  • Leg opening= 16*3*2*2.5=240 inches
  • Label or batch=5.2*2*2.5*1=26 inches
  • Button hole = 2*1*12*1=24 inches

 

Total thread consumption =4243.4 inches

To convert inches into yards divide the above figure by 36 then= 117 .88 yards

To convert yards into meters divide the above figure by 1.09 =108.15 meters

So, total thread consumption of basic five pocket jeans is 108.15 meters

 

Method 2: Measuring actual amount of thread consumed.

By using this method you can calculate thread consumption by measuring seam length with measurement tape. Pull the thread of that seam. After pulling the amount of thread from measured seam you can easily calculate the ration of thread used in the entire seam. Calculate the ration by dividing amount of thread pulled by the length of seam. Now, the ration achieved will be multiplied to the length of seam, and can get total thread consumption of that seam.

LENGTH OF SEAM = 100 cm (1 meter)

STITCH CLASS 401 = 2-Thread Chain stitch

LENGTH OF SEAM FOR WHICH THREAD IS REMOVED = 15 centimeter

NEEDLE THREAD REMOVED = 19.5 centimeter

NEEDLE THREAD FACTOR = 19.5/15 = 1.3

LOPPER THREAD REMOVED = 62.0 centimeter

LOPPER THREAD FACTOR = 62.0/15 = 4.1

TOTAL NEEDLE THREAD = 100 (centimeter) x 1.3 = 130 centimeter

TOTAL LOPPER THREAD = 100 (centimeter)x 4.1 = 410 centimeter

TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION = 130 + 410 = 540 centimeter

WASTAGE ADD 15% = 540 (centimeter) x 1.15 = 621 centimeter

 

Average Thread Consumption of different Articles are given in below table

Swim wear for ladies

75

Men two piece

480

Bras

45

Handkerchief

5

Children short

35

Sport short

70

Men shirt

120

Boy shirt

75

Rain coats

285

Aprons

20

Men jacket

200

Waist coat

50

Ties

7

Men jean

210

Anoraks

210

 

 

 

 

 

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