Spreading setup in garment | spreading cost in garment
In this article, garment merchandising talk about Spreading setup in garment | spreading cost in garment.
Setup for spreading involves
1) Verifying cutting orders
2) Positioning materials
3) Preparing cutting tables
4) Preparing machines
5) Loading material
VERIFYING CUTTING ORDERS
- Interpreting cutting order.
- Identifying the designated fabric and marker.
- Moving the fabric to spreading area.
- Role goods can be delivered to spreading area in the precise order.
- Verification is done by scanning UPC code.
PREPARING CUTTING TABLES
- Marking off the table for precise length of table.
- Length of various section and specific splice points.
- Placing the spreading paper
- Moving the spreader to loading position.
- Loading fabric roll or rolls.
- Registering fabric data (length, width).
- Threading the fabric.
- Cut the starting edge of fabric.
- Moving machine to spreading position.
- Positioning the fabric.
- Basic manufacturing required large fabric rolls that are difficult to lift and required stronger and heavier spreading machine.
- Large roller uses loading time, threading time, and less splices that are needed as the fabric is spread.
- Spreading operator monitors the fabric flaws and irregularities during spreading operation.
- Job of spreading operator depends on machine type, Like in manual spreading operators monitors
- Edge alignment
- Counting plies
- Moving spreader
- Cutting of ply at one end
The final step of spreading is placing the marker on the lay.
- Marker may hold in place with an adhesive, weighted or stapled onto the top ply.
- It prevents the shifting of fabric during cutting. Staple pins used are of 2 to 3 inches long or Perl head pins are used.
- For computer control cutting spread is covered with thin plastic sheet. This maximizes the compression of spread.
- Basic spreading equipment consists of:
(i) Spreading surfaces,
(ii) Spreading machines,
(iii) Fabric control devices,
(iv) Fabric cutting devices.
Cost of spreading process can be focused on three areas.
- Labor cost.
- Fabric waste.
- Equipment purchase.
- Labor cost reduction focuses on reducing amount of labor needed for spreading.
- A large amount of labor required in machine set up and time delay during reloading.
- Setup for spreading is time consuming and physically demanding.
- Spreading cost increases when we work with small lots and shaded fabrics that must be handling in separate spread.
Automation can reduce set up and delay time. More automation means less involvement of operators and more consistency in spreading rate.
- Power driven spreader is faster, reduce operator fatigue and carry heavier loads.
- Spreader also provides a platform for an operator to ride. This place enables operator to monitor and inspect fabric.
Achieving max speed is impossible due to stoppage for direction change, flaw removal roll change rethreading and so on. Compensation for spreading operators is often based on the number of yard spread.
- This method often increases high volume spreading but it does not encourage high quality standards or affective material utilization.
- Low labor cost may results in higher product cost.
Fabric waste occur during spreading
- Splice loss.
- End loss.
- Width loss.
- Buffer loss.
- Remnant loss
Occur with overlap at splice marks.
- Splicing is essential but too much over lapping or not enough over lapping causes additional wastage of fabric.
- Excesses overlapping are due to careless of operator or untrained worker.
Occur when the spreader reaches the end of the marker and the fabric must be cut from the roll or folded back
- End loss occurs at each end of a spread.
- It may be 2 to 2.5 inches at each end. So, shorter the spread high will be the loss.
Occur when fabric is wider than the marker and extra fabric is not used.
- A 2 inches fabric width can significantly increase fabric utilization.
- This loss is high in open width knitted fabric due to curling of edges.
Occur in between the pattern or garment parts.
- This type of wastage is not usage and called as hard waste of cutting.
- In undergarment this wastage % is high as compared to upper garment or having straight lines
- This loss can only be usage for pocket cutting or loop making.
Fabric left at the end of roll which is not fit according to the marker is called remnant loss.
- This loss can only be used for cutting of small parts or baby garments.
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